Spray additional lacquer onto an existing lacquer or shellac finish to correct blushing, a condition whereby the finish turns cloudy. I feel the same way as with wood finishing--a Nantucket basket is a beautiful piece of artistry--why cover it with a coat of plastic (poly). Copyright © 2020 This Old House Ventures, LLC. If it doesn't soften, it's some type of curing finish, such as polyurethane, varnish or tung oil. Shouldn't some stars behave as black hole? If you missed the bubbles while the varnish was fresh, you may find the finish mottled with tiny craters or hardened bubbles. But large bubbles formed in the second coat about 10 minutes after I applied it. It's formulation is primarily to allow a very high gloss to be brought up, it can shine like glass. Scuff-sand the bubbles with 120-grit or finer sandpaper, depending on what you're finishing. What’s going on? Nobody wants to do all the work of refinishing and end up with bubbles in the finish. FWIW. So I best not try to answer that question.Since you are 100% positive that these air bubbles appear as it is drying after following my previous suggestions, I can't answer that one either since I have never experienced this phenomena.Aside from the obvious differences in the compounds, the main differences between varnish, polyurethane, and shellac would be in hardness and drying time. Two axioms for furniture finishers are that you shouldn't shake the can before applying polyurethane and you shouldn't wipe the brush along the side of the can. Apply the finish gently to the sanded area, with as few brush strokes as possible. *I believe Bartley gel varnish is a polyurethane, but I'm not certain (can's at home).Dano, I'm afraid I must disagree regarding relative hardness. Over working the area can also cause what appears to be air bubbles but are really minute balls of hardened finish. I didn’t shake the can, and the brush didn’t leave any bubbles behind. FWIW, if a "plumbers brush" is what I think it is, use a better brush with China bristles, Linzer and Purdy are pretty good. A better way to achieve a sheen below fully glossy is to scuff the surface of gloss varnish. - The polyurethane is oil-based. That is just abrasive enough to remove dust and smooth the surface without removing any significant amount of varnish, and is a lot easier than rottenstone or other more traditional polishes. Agree with what Dan has said above also. Or is it? Basically you can't. - I've been careful not to paint the polyurethane on, and go over it once at the end in strokes that span the length of the piece. Some are rougher than others, but for this it doesn't really matter, although for buffing out a finish I prefer a smoother version. Guess I must be a little behind, I have never heard of it. An avid craftsman and musician, Deziel began writing on home improvement topics in 2010. Repeat the polish process with a swirl mark remover. Is there a name for applying estimation at a lower level of aggregation, and is it necessarily problematic? “I know that’s a lot of extra work, but in the end you’ll get the results you’re looking for.”, from the Jul/Aug 2017 issue of This Old House. Also does the technique vary for gloss vs matte/satin? Make sure the poly has cured for a minimum of 4-5 days at 70f. Chris Deziel is a contractor, builder and general fix-it pro who has been active in the construction trades for 40 years. Shellac has the unique ability to block troublesome wood contaminants and still be compatible with any finish applied over it. This website suggests the following technique to polish a gloss polyurethane finish: But why do people say to sand the nibs out? After all, as I keep telling myself, it is handmade right, it shouldn't be perfect!! Poly is more rigid and brittle. Varnish remains flexible even after it "cures" (it never fully cures).I use all three pretty extensively and find that varnish is the easiest to sand, then shellac, and finally poly. Again, clean all residue with a damp cloth and buff clean with a cotton cloth. Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers. Arent tiny bubbles a sign of over brushing polys! The floor and work area needs to be thoroughly clean as well. I stained it with a good bit of poly still on the floor. Flexibility would be more of a concern perhaps. How do I de-nib polyurethane after it dries but still maintain its finish? Clean all residue when done with a damp cloth. Fix graininess or cracking on a lacquer or shellac finish by spraying on a wet coat of the same material with a compressed air spray gun or a spray can. Is there anything I can do to stop this. Loose or Creaking Boards & Tight or Popping Boards, recommendation to hire an experienced pro. I have read a lot of previous posts and have found others with pimples or bubbles in their polyurethane finishes. 7. *Hi Dano,Just to clear up the polyurethane gel thing, the brand I use is Mastercraft Polyurethane Gel Wipe-On Clear Coat. He’s helped with many This Old House TV projects over the years.
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